April 8, 2023 A Visit to Melbourne and a Parade of the Penguins

Today was an exciting day. After all of our stressful activities to actually get to Melbourne, today was the day that we had to enjoy it. We slept in a little later and had breakfast at 9:00 am. We then proceeded to walk around downtown Melbourne to find a City Tram that would take us on a tour around the city, which was recommended to us by the hotel receptionist. Turns out that our hotel is directly opposite the largest railway station in Australia, the Southern Cross station. The station takes up a long city block and it is located near a major outlet mall. The architecture of the station is very unique! It looks like the designer was trying to create a visual image of either snakes on the roof of the structure or small rolling waves. We could not decide what it looks like. You see if you can tell.

(Southern Cross Rail Station)

The buildings in downtown Melbourne are a mixture of the really old past and the ultra-modern future. It was an interesting walk. After we sat waiting on the tram for over an hour, we decided to call the station to find out how frequently the tram came by. We found out that the tram generally runs every 15 minutes.

(City Circle Tram Route Map)

However, today was a holiday because it was the day after Good Friday, which was a state holiday. Who knew? Turns out that the Australians celebrate the Easter Holiday from Friday to Monday. As a result, other than tourist related activities, the airport, the train and certain stores and restaurants, most of the businesses in town were closed. After we discovered that we could not ride the tram, we decided to take a streetcar to the Immigration Museum. After a couple of stops on the streetcar, we found out that we were headed in the wrong direction and needed to go back toward where we started and go several blocks west of that point. We walked along the Yarra River that runs through the center of town; and we enjoyed the scenery along the green walkway, as well as artwork from local artists. We emerged at the other end of the walkway right at the museum. Here are some sights along the way.

(The Yarra River divides old Melbourne on the left or North bank, from new Melbourne on the right or South Bank.)

(Yarra River)

Bridge over the Yarra River)

(Art installation on the Yarra River boardwalk)

We learned quite a bit about the history of immigration in Australia during our tour of the museum. We learned that it truly is a melting pot of the world’s peoples having taken in the immigrants from many countries, who were escaping famine, war, poverty, events of disaster and prison. Although, Australia started out as a penal colony and its earlier citizens where convicts, the country initially had open arms to anyone who wanted to come live and work in Australia. However, just like other areas of the world including America, prejudice, racism, religious biases, and anti-aboriginal sentiments took over and things got pretty bad for immigrants. I think that some of the “leaders” of Australia must have taken a page or two from the Nazis and the KKK. There were people and movements to try and bring about change, but acceptance took a long time to achieve. Needless to say, it was a very moving experience going through this museum, but I felt the worst for the native people who occupied land upon which gold was discovered. In one infamous incident, hundreds of white Australian men lined up, side by side, and walked a straight line for hundreds of miles killing every native person in sight, then confiscating their lands. Apparently the most vicious and heinous events of this history occurred in Tasmania.

These native peoples, like those in the United States, over the course of decades, were relocated to reservations and strips of land that were not desired by their Australian invaders. The stories of immigrants to Australia have been stories of perseverance and determination. We were not allowed to take many photos in the museum, but here are a few of the buildings and our visit.

[One thing we have noticed distinctly in both New Zealand and Australia, are the efforts of those governments and many in their societies, to acknowledge and make some amends for the atrocious, historical treatments of the Maori and Aborigine peoples. (You should also learn that the Maoris and Aborgines are two very distinctly different peoples. The Maoris are related to Polynesian peoples; Aborigines are more closely related to sub-Saharan African peoples.) Both countries are invoking the languages of their respective native peoples, trying to honor their histories and contributions to their respective nations, and to acknowledge the pain and tragedy caused by the way each of these peoples were treated and abused by European settlers.

There is no such acknowledgement in America of what has been done to native American and enslaved peoples throughout the history of our nation. In fact, some people – including those who would seek the highest elective office in our country – want to wipe out any history that describes the facts of the terrible treatments of “Indians” and “Blacks.” In fact, such people don’t want to acknowledge and teach any history that might make their children feel “guilty” or “ashamed.” I guess the children of those who have been enslaved, abused, or wiped out are supposed to just grin and bear it; their history doesn’t matter.

For all the wrongs that have been done in Australia and New Zealand in the past, I appreciate the efforts that are being made these days, to have honest conversations about the sins of their forebears.]

After our visit to the Immigration Museum, we walked around town a little more and eventually found a Vietnamese restaurant that was open. We enjoyed our lunch. After lunch, Doug went back to the hotel to rest a little, before our evening excursion to see the Parade of the Penguins; and Patrise went to the Outlet Mall to do a little shopping for a few items. When she returned, we proceeded to get layered up for our trip to see a natural reoccurring event in this area. About 2 hours south of Melbourne, there are several thousand small blue penguins who call the area known as Phillip Island their home. Each night at dusk, they return in waves to the shores where they have their homes or “burrows.” It was cold, wet and windy (over 40 mph winds) at the coast, but the penguins make this arduous return every night, rain or shine. Patrise and I joined the throng of onlookers who paid admission to the Penguin Conservation Center to see this migration. It was an awe-inspiring event to witness. For 50 minutes each night, the Conservation Center staff track the number of penguins that come ashore, and then they turn off the lights, so that the others can make the trip without being observed. Approximately 1,600 penguins made the trek last night, while we were there in just this one area. These penguins are only about 1-foot high, and their burrows are often up steep hills and cliffs: sometimes over 1km (almost a mile) away from the shore! They are some awesome creatures!

(Patrise with our driver and guide, Paul)

(The Nobbies)

(The wind and the waves crashing on the Nobbies and the coast were immense.)

(A wallaby seen on the grounds of the penguin habitat. The wallabies, little penguins, Cape Faron geese, and Eastern Barred Bandicoot all coexist in this ecosystem. The little penguins, Cape Faron geese, and bandicoots are all species being brought back from the brink of extinction.)

(Cape Faron geese)

(Feathers outside the penguin burrows indicate a bird who has recently molted. Unfortunately, people are not allowed to take pictures of the penguins themselves, as they return from the sea to the burrows. Understandably the flashlights going of would spook them and blind them, so this is the closest I have to show you about their journey. Just trust me, it is a magnificent sight to behold!)

After the parade was over, our driver brought us back to the hotel around 9:30 p.m., and we prepared to get up to travel to Cairns tomorrow. What an eventful and exciting day!